New Routes at Pena Roja

The development of new routes in the Costa Blanca continues. Rock & Sun’s directors as well as main climbing instructors, Trevor and Desiree, share a passion for route development, so when they have a few days off, it is likely that they will be putting new routes up somewhere in the Jalon valley. They both love the creative process of spotting a new line of unclimbed rock. Often hidden behind trees and bushes – which Desiree takes care of. Then Trevor will set up a trad anchor from which they will toprope the newly exposed rock to see if there are any worthwhile climbs to be put up. If there are, then we have several trial runs on where best to place the bolts, after which Trevor gets the drill out to bolt the route. For more info on this process, read our earlier blog.

So far in 2023 this has led to 6 more sport climbing routes. So there are more and more climbs for you to have a go at, and there is something new every time you come back to the Costa Blanca for another climbing holiday.

We have kept the new route development quiet for a while, allowing us the time to climb these new lines with our clients, to get a better idea of the grades. But now we are ready to share with you the list of new climbs at Pena Roja in LLiber:

Route 1. and 2. are at the furthest left side of the ‘old side’ of the crag, in the guidebook called Lliber, Pena Roja ‘Antiguo’. The routes are immediately left of the existing route ‘Problema Izquierda’. Shade from 15.30pm onwards. They each have their own anchor. From left to right:

1. The Demands of Thor, F4, donated and named by Hannah and Ben Morgan-Gray

2. El Regalo, F4+, donated and named by Marta Kodin

The other 4 new routes are in ‘the tree sector’ at Pena Roja, in the guidebook called Alejandria-Izquierda. All 4 routes are left of Barney Rubble F6C. These climbs are in the shade until 12, and again after 16pm. From left to right:

3. La Jirafa, F4. Named by Rock & Sun (look around to see why we named it as such).

4. Rebecca, F5+, donated and named by Stuart Jamieson

5. Roger, F6A, donated and named by Daniel Graham

6. Bogota 2600, F6B+, donated and named by Mark Weenink

(all bolted by Rock & Sun: Trevor Massiah and Desiree Verbeek-Massiah)

We have our eyes on a few other lines in the Jalon Valley and nearer the coast. So when we have another gap in our calendar, we will get started on those. Keep an eye out for more news. And get in touch if you would like to donate into the Rock & Sun bolt fund. If you donate £75 or more, you can name the route!